Hehr Hall-Mark 12 or Clearview window

Here are some guidelines for taking apart, cleaning, and re-glazing windows, based on our experience with our shot-up 1965 13′ Gaucho. It seems that there are small differences among years with respect to which windows were used, but here’s what we got: two types of windows – the rounded-corner windows in the sides and on the rear of our trailer, and a 3-light, 2-fixed and 1 operable Hehr Hall-Mark 12 in front (that’s the big window you see in our banner above). Our Hall-Mark has “HEHRC 1212″ then some other numbers written in the center of the frame under the middle window, on the outside. Some info on window types from an Airstream forum (the same brand of windows was often used on Airstreams).

Supplies/tools for either window type:

• Several screwdrivers
• Chisel
• Needlenose pliers, other pliers are helpful
• #8 and #9 wrench
• WD-40!
• Screw Grab is helpful
• Scrapers or old flat head screwdriver to remove butyl tape residue
• Drill (for drilling out stubborn screws, with ~1/8″ bit)
• Leather gloves (glass protection)
• Helpful to remove screws from cranks (but a square drive bit works OK in a pinch)
• Screen – we used aluminum; can use galvanized. We had this done at the hardware store; you’re on your own for screening instructions!
• Glass (3/16″ safety glass, ~$10-15 per piece in our neighborhood).
• Backframe gasket
• Butyl tape to attach windows to trailer
• Screws to replace attachments for window track (pieces that run across glass and hold crank lever) – #6×1/2″
• We did not have to replace cranks (replacements can be found at Vintage Trailer Supply), but we did replace the nylon friction pad
• Screws to replace those holding cranks onto tracks: #8×1/2″ (ideally, #8×3/8″ but we used 1/2″ and clipped a little off the end)

For the Hall-Mark 12:

• Hairdryer
• Screws – #6×1/2″ for the track + 1 #6×1/2″ clipped to 1/4″ for the front of the center window (I think it keeps it from overextending?); and #8×1/2″ clipped to ~3/8″ to reattach crank and latch to track.
• Glazing strip
• Bulb seal
• Butyl glazing tape

Side and rear windows:

• Standard glass seal
• Window fasteners

To re-glaze and restore the side and rear windows, we refer you to this site: http://scotty.juddstudio.com/window/index.html but note that you can use the window fasteners, above, to replace the screws & nuts Mark had a hard time with, and you can replace the nylon friction pad with the one listed above, from Vintage Trailer Supply, rather than fabricating one from nylon screws/nuts as he did (if you prefer).

Also note that it’s worth figuring out how to separate the glass frame from the screen frame – you bend out one tab at the edge of the hinge, then they slide right apart, sideways. It took me a while to figure that one out.

To reglaze and restore the Hall-Mark 12: get your patience ready!

Part A: Taking it apart (assuming you’ve already got it off the trailer)

1. The glazing strip (gray plastic edging on the outside of the glass that holds the window in) needs to be removed. Even though it looks a little different on the side and center glass frames, it is plastic in both cases. Ours was so old and brittle we had to chip it out and/or use pliers to yank it out. Two of our windows were broken so we didn’t have to be careful, but the pliers helped for the one that we wanted to save. Once you get these pieces out, you should see that the glass is smaller than the frame, and is laid into a bed of narrow black butyl tape.

Window before removing strips or glass

Before removing strips from sidelight (fixed side pane)

Chipping out glazing strip

2. To extricate the glass from the butyl tape: hairdryer. That’s all it took, after several tries with my hands, pressing against a hard object, trying to pry, cutting with a utility knife, and even (because our glass was already shattered) smashing it with a mallet. It turned out that you just need to heat up the tape with a hairdryer for a few moments, then don you leather glove and slide the utility knife in to cut the gummy stuff, then slowly work your way around the window pane and gently push it out. The dryer then came in handy to remove the tape residue.

3. At some point, I muscled out 4 screws that were holding the tracks in place. I had an idea that the frame would slip apart if I did this, but it did not. Instead, the tracks just pop out. These screws were IN THERE. It took several attempts over 2 days (and help from Ken) to get the last 2 out. Screw grab came in handy, because WD-40 didn’t cut it. It didn’t serve much of a purpose to remove them, except to make the polishing much easier.

Removing screws from track

4. Up next (not shown) – polishing all the aluminum. I used the Turtle Wax polishing compound you can get at the auto parts store for about $3, and a Scotch Brite pad (green scrubby) – actually, a bunch of them.

Part B: Putting it back together.

• First, you have to screw the tracks back in – they form part of the frame of the side panes.
• Clean the aluminum and the window edge with rubbing alcohol to get it prepped for butyl tape (the thin, 1/4″ black butyl tape). Stick the tape down to the aluminum, center the glass, and set it in. Later, we put heavy items on top overnight to be sure it sealed properly.
• Then – the worst part of the job – put the new glazing strip in. We cut the corners at 45 degrees, and pressed it in, often with a flat screwdriver wrapped in a rag. Frustrating at times! It looks great though. I had to keep changing the utility knife blade to get a clean cut across the strip (the blade dulled quickly and the cut got shaggy).
• After that part, you’re basically done – just add the bulb seal (which is very easy & satisfying – read the notes on the Vintage Trailer Supply site to figure out how), then reinstall the crank and latch, plus that one weird little screw on the front, above the center window.

Good luck!